The unsung heroes of sustainability: celebrating old vines
Trigger Warning: Geeky Wine Content Ahead
Old vines, Vielle Vignes or "Viñas Viejas" here in Spain. These words often appear on wine bottles, indicating that the vine producing the fruit was "old." But why does that matter? What is the difference between old and young vines? And what does "old" even look like in reality? Let’s dive into the intriguing world of young and old vines and what they bring to your glass.
What Makes a Vine “Old”?
There’s no universal definition of an "old vine", and perspectives vary across wine regions. However, key definitions agreed upon by the International Organisation of Vine & Wine (OIV) and the Old Vine Conference provide valuable clarity:
Old Grapevine: A single plant officially documented to be 35 years or older, regardless of other factors. For grafted plants, the graft connection between rootstock and scion must have been undisturbed for at least 35 years.
Old Vineyard: A continuous and legally delimited vineyard area where at least 85% of the grapevines meet the above criteria.
In some regions, such as DOCa Rioja, definitions have been established to protect, preserve, and promote old vines. In 2019, the DOCa defined "Old Vines/Vineyards" as those traceable to at least 35 years, with "Centenary Vineyards" reaching 100 years and "Pre-Phylloxera Vineyards" dating back to before 1900. By 2030, the definition of old vines in Rioja will shift from 35 to 50 years old.
Sustainability and Old Vines
Sustainability, at its core, involves preserving what we have for future generations. As vines age, they become less productive, often yielding fewer grapes. However, the fruit they do produce is widely considered to offer greater concentration, balance, and complexity than that of younger vines.
Fernando Mora MW, of Bodegas Frontonio (a featured winery in our April box), captures the essence of old vines beautifully:
"Old vines, thanks to their balance, deep roots, and adaptation, produce higher quality grapes, with lower yield, greater complexity, resilience, and better expression of the terroir."
By caring for old vines and supporting bodegas that nurture them, we as consumers can promote sustainable viticulture and help secure the future of the wine industry.
The Challenges of Old Vines
While old vines produce exceptional wines, they come with challenges:
Lower Yields: Older vines naturally yield fewer grapes, which is prized for its quality but can strain vineyard economics.
Labour-Intensive Care: Old vines often require hand pruning and harvesting, increasing labour costs. For instance, it takes four times longer to prune a 45-year-old vine compared to a younger one.
Disease Susceptibility: Older vines are more vulnerable to diseases such as Eutypa Lata or Esca, requiring careful management.
Despite these challenges, old vines are better equipped to handle extreme weather conditions thanks to their deep root systems and carbohydrate reserves — an invaluable advantage in the face of climate change.
On the left is a one-year-old Mencía vine. It begins with the planting of rootstock—American rootstock Rupestris, in this case. Once the rootstock is established, a graft is made using cuttings from old vines in the same vineyard. In contrast, on the right is an old Mencía vine, over 80 years old, from the same vineyard in Bierzo
Old Vines and Legislative Change
Key definitions established by the OIV and the Old Vine Conference have led to significant legislative changes and increased pressure on the EU to take old vines seriously. As with any industry, greenwashing can be a concern, with some paying lip service to "green" practices without meaningful action. Clear definitions help consumers make informed choices, rewarding wineries that champion old vines and the hard work involved in their preservation.
As Sarah Abbott MW notes:
"This is a milestone for the old vine movement globally. Preserving old vines isn’t just about celebrating history; it’s about supporting the future of sustainable winemaking."
A Commitment to Sustainability
At the heart of our wine subscription box is a commitment to sustainability. While we can’t promise all our wines will be made from old vines—nor should they be—we celebrate those that are. By supporting wineries that nurture old vines, we contribute to preserving Spain’s viticultural heritage and promoting a sustainable future for winemaking.
Ready to explore the world of Spanish wines?
Ready to explore the world of Spanish wines? From the vibrant, fruit-forward flavours of young vines to the bold, nuanced depths of old ones, our subscription box brings you a taste of Spain’s rich winemaking heritage. Check out our subscriptions - sign up now to recieve our February box and learn more about wine, Spain, and sustainability
Cheers and thanks for reading.
Lettie
Old Monastrell vines sprawling across the scorching soils of Jumilla
